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Local Visits Besalú Besalú is possibly one of the most attractive and interesting small towns in Catalunya. It was an important place from early times, and when the Moors were expelled from the Iberian Peninsula, it became the capital of one of several independent kingdoms. The town prospered and remained a place of importance well into the 14th century. Today it is a picturesque little place containing a number of impressive monuments. The most striking reminder of Besalu’s grandeur is the splendid 11thC Pont Fortificat (fortified bridge) with its two tower gates, over the river Fluvia. Other interesting buildings are the 11thC monastery church of Sant Pere, the 12thC Casa Cornella, and the Miqwe or purifying baths, a unique building that is a reminder of the Jewish community that lived here in the Middle Ages.
The Banyoles lake is an unusual feature of Catalan geology. It is fed by subterranean waters, and for this reason, the lake (and several other ponds around it) have the disconcerting habit of constantly changing level. It’s an attractive place to visit, surrounded by gentle countryside, which offers opportunities for a variety of sports, from walking or cycling on the footpaths around the lake, to canoeing, swimming, or even fishing. There are also various boating options - cruises, rowing boats and pedaloes. The lake was the venue for the rowing events of the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games. Next to the lake lies the town of Banyoles, which grew up around a monastery originally founded in the 9th century. The town retains some medieval streets with interesting ancient buildings, and it has a lovely arcaded main square, lined with trees and several cafes. A Wednesday market has been held here since the 11th century.
Girona is northern Catalunya’s largest city, full of historical and cultural interest. Its core is the old town built on a hill above the river Onyar, bounded by the ancient city wall on one side and the river on the other. Founded as a Roman fortress on the strategic Via Augusta, the city was fought over countless times even up to the 19th century. Following the Moorish conquest, it became an Arab town for 200 years, and there was also a continuous Jewish presence for 600 years. It's no wonder that all these dramas have bequeathed an amazing mixture of architectural styles, from classic Roman through Moorish and medieval to art nouveau and modernism. The historic old town has been beautifully restored, and several roads and bridges link it to the new town. Among its many fascinating visits, all within easy walking distance, are the Cathedral, the Arab Baths, the Monestir de St. Pere de Galligants and the Museu d’Art. All in all, there are wonderful hours to be spent exploring its steep streets, and sampling some of its many bars, cafés and tempting boutiques.
If you are going into Girona by car we advise you not to drive into the city centre, but to park in one of the several free parking areas across the river, 10-15 minutes walk from the old town.
The life and work of the extravagant surrealist painter Salvador Dali is focused in three places: the Teatre-Museu in the town of Figueres, the Portlligat Casa-Museu near Cadaques, and the Castell de Pubol in the village of La Pera. The artist was born in 1904 in the small town of Figueres and although his career took him to Madrid, Barcelona, Paris and the USA, he remained true to his roots. In the 1960s and 70s Dali converted the old town theatre (ruined by a fire at the end of the Spanish Civil War) into the bizarre Teatre-Museu. Although it is not a display of Dali’s “greatest hits”, which are scattered far and wide, it is definitely worth a visit. As the artist himself explained, it shouldn’t be considered as a museum, but as a gigantic surrealist object. The very building is an exhibit in itself, as it was designed to be. Topped by a huge metallic dome and decorated with luminous egg shapes, it gets even crazier inside. It’s a place full of surprises, tricks and illusions, containing a large number of his artistic creations. The Portlligat Casa-Museu, near the beautiful coastal village of Cadaques, began as a fisherman’s hut which was steadily altered and enlarged by Dali, becoming his residence and workshop. The result is a labyrinthine structure that contains some of the painter’s furniture and personal objects. Finally, the Castell de Pubol in the village of La Pera is a Gothic and Renaissance mansion, also including a 14th century church, which was done up by Dali in his inimitable style, and then given to his beloved Gala as a gift. The strength of the artist’s passion for his lover, later his wife, is shown by motifs and reminders all over the castle. A visit is in effect a tour of the couple’s tortured relationship.
Cadaques is a picturesque coastal village famous round the world thanks to Dali, Picasso and other renowned artists. You can only access it by a steep winding road, consequently it has not been overrun. With its whitewashed houses lining the narrow sloping streets and its rocky bays on either side of the harbour (which is still a working fishing port), it is a genuinely charming little place. Its surrounding area has a special magic too, a fusion of wind, sea, light and rock. In the 1950s and 60s Salvador Dali built his house on the outskirts of the village, and he attracted an various interesting celebrities, such as Walt Disney, the Duke of Windsor and even Mick Jagger, making Cadaques a distinctly hip place to be. Today the crowd is not so creative nor so famous, but the Cadaques atmosphere remains.
Situated at 600m above sea level, this monastery has spectacular views out to the sea, dominating the whole Cap de Creus peninsula. Founded by the Benedictines in the 8th century, it became very powerful during the Middle Ages. Its buildings represent the high point of Romanesque art in the Girona region. Inevitably they have been altered and extended over the centuries, and they are now being restored. In the nave you can even see some pillars from a Roman temple that once stood on this site.
Another extraordinary valley overshadowed by the mountains of Puigsacalm and Santa Magdalena and full of contrasts: fields, waterfalls such as El Sallent, gorges, as well as oak and beech woods. Numerous Romanesque hermitages also form part of the scenery. One place not to miss is the village of Els Hostalets ( = 'small inns' in Catalan), a listed historical and artistic site that is one of the most picturesque spots in the region. Two neat, well-kept streets form the centre of the village. The houses have long wooden balconies sheltered from rain and sun by overhanging eaves, and garlanded with ears of maize hung up to dry between pots of brilliant geraniums. The small villages of Joanetes and El Mallol are also filled with history and delight.
This valley offers sublime scenery and no less than 15 Romanesque churches spread out in an area no larger than 12 square kilometers. Some are not in a very good state but others have been well maintained and are still in use. Also in this valley one can find the remains of the 2000 year old Roman road of Capsacosta, which used to link the Pyrenees to the coast.
La Bisbal La Bisbal is a medieval market town which since the 17th century has specialised in the production of pottery. The quality of the clay and of local craftsmanship have made this place the capital of ceramics. Dozens of pottery shops line the main road through town, where you can pick up some attractive souvenirs and, with a bit of searching, some terrific local pieces. Although you will probably stop here mainly for shopping, the old centre of the town is worth a little exploration, as it retains the architectural remnants of a once thriving Jewish quarter, and parts of a medieval castle built for the bishops of Girona.
The picturesque villages of Pals, Peratallada, Madremanya, Vulpellac, Monells, and Cruilles are all worth a visit, as they have preserved something of their medieval essence and many fine medieval buildings, from little churches and towers to monasteries and castles. Today their narrow streets and porticoed squares have been supplemented by enticing restaurants and a sprinkling of informal boutiques.
Begur is a small hill town with a 10thC castle which, from its rock above the village, commands extensive views of the central Costa Brava. The beach development here has been generally discreet, and although a fair number of foreign visitors come in season, many of the better-off Catalans have a villa here for weekend and August escapes. From Begur you can reach a series of smallish beaches, such as Fornells, Aiguafreda, Sa Tuna, Sa Riera and Aiguablava, which with their cliffs and coves, crystalline waters and exuberant vegetation, form one of the most enticing stretches of the coast. About 8km from Begur is Palafrugell, a small town with a popular Sunday market. Its nearby coastline also boasts quiet, pine-covered slopes backing the little coves of Calella, Llafranc and Tamariu with transparent turquoise waters.
Located on a small hill overlooking the peaceful landscape of the Alt Empordà, Ullastret is one of the best well preserved Iberian settlements in Catalunya. There are walls, gates, silos, water cisterns and other remains still to be seen, most dating from the 3rd century BC. Excavations are continuing on this 11 hectare site.
Empuries was probably the first and one of the most important Greek colonies in the Iberian Peninsula. It was founded in 550BC by merchants who for centuries conducted a vigorous trade throughout the Mediterranean. The colony came to be called Emporion ('market') and remained an important trading centre as well as a conduit of Greek culture to the Iberians. Empuries was also the place where the Roman legions first landed in the Peninsula, in 218 BC. A Roman city more splendid than the Greek, with an amphitheatre, fine villas and a marketplace, grew up above the old Greek town. The Romans were in turn replaced by the Visigoths, who built several basilicas. Emporion only disappears from the records in the 9th century when, it is assumed, it was wrecked by either Saracen or Norman pirates. It was rediscovered by archaeologists at the turn of the 20th century.
The shrine of Núria is a popular devotional centre in Catalunya, located on a beatiful spot in the upper valley of the Núria river. This shrine was built in 1883 over the site of an old hermitage dedicated to the Madonna of Núria, the patroness of the Pyrenean shepherds. She is also evoked in cases of female sterility. Besides the sanctuary, the building also contains a hotel, restaurant and exhibition halls. In front there is a small-scale ski resort, with ten short runs suitable for begginers. Núria is the staring point for numerous fine walks. It is also fun getting there, as it is only accessible on foot (through the spectacular Gorges de Núria) or by the little cremallera (an electric narrow-gauge, cogwheel railway) from Ribes de Freser, which rises over 1000m on its 12km journey. Among the best-known walks we shoud mention the climb to Puigmal (2193m) and the trek to the glacial cirque of Ulldeter, which is the source of the Ter, one of Catalonia’s longest river.
This valley is formed by two rivers that join at the quiet mountain town of Camprodon. This town, which grew around the ancient Romanesque monastery of St. Pere, contains some notable medieval buildings, such as the Gothic church of Santa Maria, the ruins of the town walls, and the outstanding Gothic bridge, Pont Nou. Camprodon became a popular summer resort from the end of the 19th century, and so has many houses and cottages built in the Art Nouveau style. Continuing up the valley there is a series of rural villages blending perfectly into the rugged landscape, such as Llanars, with its notable Romanesque church, La Roca de Pelanca, or Setcases, a little village which because of its proximity to a ski resort has become a residential and tourist centre. Setcases is the gateway to a part of the Pyrenees of very great beauty, dominated by the huge Bastiment and Costabona peaks. One of the most interesting excursions from Camprodon is the rather strenuous 14km narrow and winding road down to Beget, passing through Rocabruna and its wide panorama. Beget is picturesque in the extreme, situated at the bottom of a very deep valley, with stone houses with wooden balconies overhanging the Trull river.
Montserrat ('serrated mountain'), 50km northwest of Barcelona, is an amazing 1236m mountain of truly weird rock pillars, shaped by wind, rain and frost from a conglomeration of limestone, pebbles and sand that once lay under the sea. On a clear day you can see from here as far as the Pyrenees. The most dramatic way to approach Montserrat is by the cable car that swings across the valley from Montserrat-Aeri station. The mountain is the setting for Catalunya’s holiest place, the Benedictine monastery of Montserrat. First recorded in the 9th century, it was enlarged in the 11th century, and in 1409 became independent of Rome. Today it has a community of about 80 monks. The Escolania is Montserrat’s famous Boy’s Choir, reckoned to be Europe’s oldest music school. They sing twice a day in the basilica. The small wooden statue of La Moreneta ('the dark maiden') is the soul of Montserrat. It is a 12th century Romanesque wooden sculpture of Mary and the infant Jesus, and over the centuries pilgrims have come from far and wide to venerate her. She has been the patroness of Catalunya since 1881.
Barcelona Barcelona (about 1½ hrs by car from the villa), is the capital of Catalunya, a bustling cosmopolitan city with more than two thousand years of history. Besides being one of the largest Mediterranean ports and an important industrial and commercial centre, it has for centuries been a focus of art and culture. It is a vibrant and dynamic metropolis with a fascinating combination of history, culture, art and architecture, as well as a complete range of shops, bars, restaurants and entertainment. The old quarter, known as Ciutat Vella or Barri Gotic (the Gothic Quarter), is a labyrinth of substantial medieval and Renaissance-style stone buildings, a living lesson in the city's history. If you explore the narrow winding streets lined with local bars and fascinating little shops, you will also discover ancient churches and imposing palaces, the magnificent 13th century Gothic cathedral and the splendid medieval shipyards. Beyond this core spreads the Eixample ("the extension"), built during the 19th and early 20th centuries as a breathing space for the congested city centre. Along its spacious avenues are many impressive Art Nouveau buildings, a style that was all the rage in the early 20th century and which in Spain took the name of Modernism. Barcelona is in fact one of the European capitals of Art Nouveau, and it has some inspiring and unique architecture. Its most famous architect was Antoni Gaudi, who designed some outstanding buildings including the Sagrada Familia (Holy Family), a huge cathedral which is still being completed in accordance with his extraordinary designs. Another interesting part of the city is Montjuïc, the largest green area of Barcelona. Among its attractions are the Olympic Stadium, five museums, an amusement park and a castle. Barcelona's seaside is also worth a look; both Port Vell and Port Olimpic (built for the Olympic sailing events) offer attractive environments and good leisure facilities, and they are surrounded by trendy bars and restaurants. There is so much to see in Barcelona, but top of your list should be a stroll along Les Rambles, Barcelona’s best-known boulevard that leads through the heart of the Ciutat Vella (old town) down to the harbor. It is the city’s most vibrant and lively street, made colorful by newspaper kiosks, flower stalls, cages of birds for sale, street performers, craftspeople selling their creations, bars and café terraces. Some say is the only street in the world where you wish it never ended. It is Barcelona’s life and self image, a focal point for locals as much as for tourists, who stroll here by day and by night. Between its many shops and restaurants are various imposing buildings, such as the Liceu opera house. Just off the main thoroughfare, about half way down, is the imposing colonnaded square of the Plaça Reial, a good spot to stop and refresh yourselves while admiring the lofty palm trees! And don’t forget to step into La Boqueria, an indoor market built between 1836 and 1840. It is a riot of noise and color with great piles of fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices, mounds of cheeses and sausages, and fish so fresh it’s alive. Finally a warning: Since Barcelona is a popular tourist destination with thousands of visitors from all over the world, it is also a paradise for skilled pickpockets! So keep a careful watch over your money, cameras and other valuables. Also beware of people who come up to you to talk, offer or ask you something, as they could be trying to distract you while an accomplice helps themselves to your wallet or whatever.
Apart from the old Gothic Quarter where you will want (and have) to walk, the best way to get around Barcelona is to use public transport. The system includes the Metro, buses, trains and a network of funicular railways and cable cars. You can pick up a free public transport map from any of the tourist offices. The Metro is modern and efficient, and is the quickest way of getting around. On the other hand the buses are a good way to see the city while you travel from place to place. All the red city centre buses stop at one of the three central squares, Plaça de Catalunya, Universitat and Urquinaona. On all public transport you can buy a single ticket every time you ride, but if you do several trips, it is cheaper to get a targetes, a set of tickets valid for ten journeys, which can be shared out among several people. There are two types: T1, valid for the buses and the Metro; and T2, valid only for the Metro. Finally, between mid-June and mid-September, there is also the Tourist Bus, possibly the best way to see the city. It runs on a circular route every 30 minutes starting from the Plaça de Catalunya, and it links all the main sights and tourist destinations. You can get on and off it as you please.
By train: The train from Girona train station goes to Estació Sants and also stops at Estació Passeig de Gracia, which is only a short walk (10-15 minutes) from Plaça de Catalunya. By bus: From Girona Bus station you can take either SARFA or TEISA buses, which stop in the center of Barcelona, again 10-15 minutes walk from Plaça de Catalunya. By car: Barcelona is the worst place for dense traffic, it can be really nerve-racking, and parking can be very difficult. Also there is a complex network of highways and autopistas going around and into the city, which is well signed but completely baffling if you don't recognise any of the names. So we don't advise you to go there by car. However, if you do prefer being on your own wheels, avoid going into Barcelona on Sunday evenings or at peak times on weekdays. We strongly advise you not to leave any valuables or luggage in your parked car. It’s probably safer and easier to use paid car parks. And DO NOT leave your car in a designated no parking zone as it may well be towed away, and recovering it is expensive.
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